Have you ever wanted to chase the endless summer? I know I have!
Growing up I was obsessed with the beach bum surfer life, Kelly Slater posters pulled from Surfer Magazine adorned my walls and although raised in sunny Southern California I didn’t begin my surfing adventure until my 30s. Perhaps making up for lost time, I now find myself planning trips around surf locations and exciting breaks I want to explore.
Here you won’t find advice on beaches in Malibu or the Algarve, this is for the person who wants to surf a break that breaks away from the traditional surf spots everyone knows.
However, if you’re familiar with The Endless Summer you might recognize a few spots.
Engabao, Ecuador
Originally Ecuador wasn’t on my travel list or surf radar prior to my trip in January 2023. However, during the political upheaval in Peru it became apparent that I would need to leave the country sooner rather than later. After quick Google search and I found a lovely spot in a remote village in Ecuador where I could find some peace and recover from the chaos in Peru.
I didn’t do much more research than finding the beach, a cool and social surf hostel, and ensuring transportation from the airport to the locale nearly an hour away. As it somehow often does on these spontaneous adventures, everything went as smooth as could be and Engabao will forever hold a special place in my heart.
Where to stay
As a solo traveler I have grown fond of hostels. What constitutes a hostel has changed over the years and the conditions have improved, ringing in a new era for backpackers looking to share experiences and advice with one another. I opted for Free Spirit Hostel and it was genuinely a brilliant experience. Definitely more so if you’re under 30, but even for a more seasoned traveler like myself I had an absolute blast with everyone there.
Free Spirit is mere steps from the water and offers full packages including accommodation, surf lessons, equipment, and breakfast and dinner included for a very reasonable price. The meals were fantastic and there is an on-site bar offering cold drinks and locally sourced snacks throughout the day. There are two breaks right in the front yard that cater to different skill sets, both beginner and first-timers as well as the more experienced.
During my stay I also worked with the hostel to better set themselves up for digital nomads, including improved wifi reserved for those working and spaces for virtual meetings. I had a couple meetings during my stay and the connection was strong enough, perhaps not always with video, but definitely good enough for audio without any drop off. The quiet and serene location with the sound of waves crashing in the background is ideal for those able to work virtually, especially with a North American time zone.
There aren’t many, if any, other hotels in Engabao itself. However if you want a more classic beach hotel experience, a few kilometers away in Playas, there is much more in the way of classic hotels, beach restaurants, and sun drenched lounge chairs for rent. The surf is also excellent and I caught some of my best waves to date on the slow and mellow breaks there. And if you’re a longboarder make sure you explore the waves here at least once because the slow break is ideal for cruising almost all the way to shore.
How to get there
If you’re travelling from outside Ecuador than flying into Guayaquil is your best bet. The airport offers some international flights, while others will need to have a connection in Quito. If you’re traveling around the country, or even arriving from some of the neighboring countries, you might be able to take one of the more luxurious buses to Guayaquil instead. I would have done this from Máncora, Peru however the timing of my trip didn’t have me there as my last stop before Ecuador.
From Guayaquil you can take a local bus to Playas and walk the 1.5 kilometers to Engabao or connect to a smaller bus that takes you directly to the village. After the mess in Peru and finishing a 5 day and 50km hike the day before, I opted for the airport pick up and drive direct to the hostel. It was the pricier option at $70, but if you’re more than one person you can easily split that amongst yourselves. The time of day that you arrive and the length of your journey will play a big part in which option is best for you as the buses don’t usually run after dark.
